Flying Fox Clothing steals the spotlight at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria, Next Gen runway

Phoebe Blogg
Phoebe Blogg Published August 31, 2023 at 9.00am (AWST)

Created and founded by talented designer Sandra Tupu, Flying Fox Clothing is where custom clothing takes a creative twist with the inclusion of cultural storytelling.

Driven by shape, nature and hope, Flying Fox Clothing took to the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria to showcase the brand's new 'Afi vao' menswear collection, which was of course…nothing short of impressive.

"Flying Fox Clothing is a custom clothing design label creating quality, timeless collections that tell a unique story. Inspired by cultural traditions, perspectives and well-crafted custom-made clothing in Aotearoa, serving individuals and performing arts," Flying Fox founder Sandra Tupu said.

Sophisticated, practicable and locally made in Aotearoa, Flying Fox's garments are all personalised made to measure items, designed to suit each individual client.

With a focus on high-quality, fabric and construction, the creative designer also opts to use a mixture of natural fibres and recycled elements. Choosing to use these materials aims to create unique, contemporary clothing, that benefits the planet as much as its wearer.

Inspired by Tupu's personal experience and appreciation of Indigenous culture, sees all Flying Fox's garments researched, designed, drawn and made from scratch.

Flying Fox Clothing designer Sandra Tupu. (Image: supplied)

Despite launching in 2009, this was Flying Fox Clothing's first showing at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria – and by the looks on ticket holders' faces, it certainly won't be the brand's last.

Featuring on the Viva Next Gen runway, saw Tupu debut Flying Fox's newest collection – otherwise known as 'Afi vao' meaning wildfire in Samoan.

"When we lived in Victoria, Melbourne, we would take our children camping in the Kinglake area. We have a huge appreciation for the outdoors," Tupu said.

"A year after the devastating bush fires of Black Saturday 2009, I revisited The Kinglake area and took a photo of the bush that stuck with me and this was what inspired me to create my range Afi vao many years later.

"This image showed the stark contrast of the black and charred trees with this incredible amount of lush green growth climbing up around them. After much research into this event I became fascinated by the Indigenous traditions and beliefs, especially around the 'Living body' Bandaiyan of Australia.

"I was taken by Bruce Pascoe's views of care for the land and wanting to go back to how things were done by Indigenous communities."

It is evident through both Tupu's inspiration and design method, that this collection was significantly influenced by both Indigenous heritage and culture.

"The more I grow as an artist/designer I find myself drawing my inspiration from different cultural perspectives," she said.

My own heritage is Samoan and European and I feel very lucky and proud to have been brought up with a very rich diverse cultural background.

"A big focus within 'Afi vao' has been to use nature, fire and water to create my fabric eco-prints".

Flying Fox Clothing presenting at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria. (Image: Getty Images)

Having already debuted 'Afi vao' in Sydney last year in October as part of 'Pacific Runway', Tupu was beyond thrilled to be bringing the consciously crafted collection to New Zealand.

"This is the first time Flying Fox Clothing is showing at NZFW," she said.

"I debuted 'Afi vao' in Sydney last year October 2022 - part of 'Pacific Runway'. I enjoyed this experience being amongst other Pacific designers and 'Nungala Creative', an Indigenous Australian designer who opened the show."

Flying Fox Clothing presenting at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria. (Image: Getty Images)

After joining the Fashion Design Team at Auckland University of Technology (AUT) in 2022, Tupu's value and knowledge towards Indigenous cultures has only increased the growth and craft of Flying Fox Clothing.

Despite now working as a part-time contract lecturer at AUT, Tupu's lecture on 'Authenticity, Culture & Design', remains one of her favourites to both teach and share with students.

"I teach at AUT University in the Fashion Faculty and one of my lectures is on 'Authenticity, Culture & Design'. An area I feel very passionate about," she said.

"I have included my 'Afi vao' journey as part of the learning process for my students as I think it provides a contemporary rich example of integrating indigenous perspectives."

Tupu's appreciation of Indigenous culture is further reflected within her teaching, in that she encourages – and urges – all students to ask questions, be inquisitive and ultimately open to learning more about others and their culture.

"Last year I introduced our students to the 'International Indigenous Design Charter," she said.

"I promote this because I'm passionate about this area of learning for all our students. I encourage all students to be proud of their background/culture and not be afraid of learning more of another culture but be inquisitive and hungry to gain more knowledge so a deeper understanding and respect can occur."

Flying Fox Clothing presenting at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kahuria. (Image: Supplied Getty Images)

After making an impressive debut, the question of everyone's minds – including ours – is of course what's next? When the question is raised, Tupu is certain that any business growth moving forward will remain to be as sustainable as possible.

Tupu values gradual growth with conscious consumerism, over anything else.

"I am keen for Flying Fox Clothing to take a step forward by showing at NZFW, Kahuria 2023, and become more known. I want to grow my business in a gradually sustainable way, she said.

The artistic designer is also eager to continue gaining inspiration from a range of Indigenous creatives and their art.

"I look forward to the second showing of Witi's Wāhine (I was costume designer) - a wonderful Indigenous play by Nancy Brunning produced by Hāpai Productions to be shown in Wellington early next year," she said.

"I hope to continue my collaboration with the performing arts community."

Whilst the inspiration behind the 'Afi vao' is influenced by ashes of devastation, the small capsule collection itself... is well and truly a celebration of new life.

With Tupu's dedication to craft and culture, Flying Fox Clothing is bound to soar.

"I hope we can keep moving in the direction where we can respectfully embrace Indigenous fashion and give more opportunities for this space to grow and increase," Tupu told Style Up.

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