Known for his creative ability to challenge Western fashion, thinking and making through clothes, Campbell Luke founder Dr. Bobby Luke (Ngāti Ruanui) has once again, done just that.
Showcasing his new "He Oranga Ngākau" collection at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria, saw the creative founder do what he does best.
Delivering a modern, culturally-inspired womenswear collection that strives to challenge the norms of Western design and start conversations, de-centralizing Western design theory has been the focal point of not just this collection but the entire brand.
With the local Māori designer proudly promoting Kaupapa Māori-led designs, Luke's interests lie deep within his iwi, hapu, and wider landscape of Aotearoa.
Luke also strives to promote and encourage a greater understanding of Indigenous design culture, through innovative garments and practices of moving image and photography.
It is this combination of the two that visually communicates the brand's strong underlying messages of cultural awareness and advocacy.
Initially launched in 2015 in Aotearoa, the popular womenswear brand specialises in linens, natural fibre fabrics, and luxe knits.
Utilising natural material sees Luke emphasise the brand's ongoing commitment to creating sustainably conscious garments that last the test of time.
Luke's recent presentation at NZFW – held on the 29th of August – saw the popular womenswear brand hone in on elements and aspects of both harmony and peace.
"Our New Zealand Fashion Week show "Oranga ngākau" situates ourselves and sensories that inhibit our awareness of the past. We are building up to what will be a beautiful moment," said Campbell Luke founder Dr. Bobby Luke.
"We are proud to present a new collection in honour of a beloved Brother, Dad, and Son.
"This collection captures the essence of equilibrium, harmony, peace, and restoration. It embodies the core themes of the event and project, aptly named "He Oranga Ngākau."
With an emphasis on functionality and ease of wear, Luke's 'He Oranga Ngākau' collection saw a mixture of free-flowing silhouettes.
Whilst the garments did elude to a rather whimsical aspect of the brand, full-bodied sleeves, quilted tops, and crochet maxi dresses, stood strong on their own.
For those who were privy to attend Luke's NZFW Kahuria presentation, it was evident from the smile plastered across critics' faces that this artistic designer had delivered yet another highly sought-after collection.
Creating a collection – and brand – that strives to challenge and question traditional Western design, whilst remaining modern and unique is no easy task.
Whilst Luke did stun us with his collection, he reinforced the idea that at the end of the day, anyone is capable of challenging Western design norms.
One must challenge what has been done in order to see something different… and for Luke, that's precisely what he chose to do.
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