From floods to fashion shows, MumRed founder Samala Cronin sets her sights on Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair's Country to Couture runway

Phoebe Blogg
Phoebe Blogg Published August 6, 2024 at 11.45am (AWST)

From bouncing back from floods in Cairns to debuting her First Nations fashion brand, MumRed, at Melbourne Fashion Week, Indigenous designer Samala Cronin has had a busy few months.

Ahead of showcase MumRed on the Country to Couture runway on Tuesday, the passionate designer said the last few months have influenced and impacted her work not only as a designer, but a creative.

Preparing to showcase MumRed at Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair's Country to Couture runway, Cronin is proving that no setback is too great, saying MumRed entered 2024 with "sheer determination".

"MumRed was accelerated onto the Australian Fashion scene following our debut showcase on the incredible Ganbu Marra Runway with Melbourne Fashion Week in October 2023," Cronin told Style Up.

"This itself was remarkable, having received an invite to attend only three days after launching the label, caused quite the domino effect.

"MumRed was also commissioned to create a piece for Thelma Plum to wear at her debut performance of 'We Don't Talk About It', supporting Coldplay's sold-out World Tour performance in Perth late last Year."

Cronin said MumRed has bounced back following personal adversity in North Queensland.

"We have since showcased with Melbourne Fashion Festival, opening the Global Indigenous Runway and taking up Ambassadorship for the Rich Blak Women Network with the First Nations Foundation, and created unique custom pieces for Emily Wurramarra, Barkaa, Ashlei Major and Guyala Bayles MumRed has also been honoured with invitations to showcase at New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week in 2025," she said.

First Nations model Sene Maluwapi behind the scenes at the Gambu Marra runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Kyle Archie Wright)

First Nations model Sene Maluwapi modelling MumRed on the Gambu Marra runway at Melbourne Fashion Week 2023. (Image: Kyle Archie Wright)

When speaking of the devastating Cairns floods which recently hit the designer's local area, Cronin said it was the community's ability to rally together and support mob that truly made a difference.

"North Queensland is approximately 30 per cent First Nations people. When these natural disasters occur, we are hit first and the hardest," Cronin said.

"Our communities rallied and were supported by mob across the nation. A special mention to Jo from Dreamtime Aroha who raised funds that supported private planes to be contracted and deliver emergency supplies to the most affected and remote communities of Wujal Wujal, Hopevale, Bloomfield and on the ground emergency relief in Yarrabah and many more across North Queensland.

"These supplies were provided in the disaster's immediate aftermath, and the spirit of community and mob that made it happen was beautiful to witness.

"We have survived because we look after each other. We will continue to do so in the most beautiful ways. I love how our mob held each other, and I wouldn't have been able to navigate that time without it."

Cronin said it is this strength and resilience of the community and women that have inspired MumRed and it's creations.

"MumRed was created as a homage to the strength and resilience of our matriarchy," she said.

"It celebrates these inherited traits and showcases our culture in a kaleidoscopic display of colour not seen before.

"This is all inspired by real life people - the love and strength embodied by the women of our communities, the back bones of our mob - the mothers, grandmothers, sisters, daughters and nieces - the matriarchy. Without it, we are lost."

Samala Thakialee Cronin and Olivia Bowden model Fractured Country, Fractured Songlines by MumRed. (Image: Stacey Lee Photography)

Now taking on her next challenge, Cronin is thrilled to be participating in Country to Couture's 2024 runway event.

This year MumRed will be displaying the brand's newest collection, Fractured Country, a collection Cronin describes as a multifaceted kaleidoscopic display of culture and colour.

"Fractured Country is a walk through my Cosmic Mind Garden. It is a colourful, multifaceted, layered, third dimensional manifestation of the lessons of my grandmother's hands," she said.

"From procurement and gathering resources - grass, feathers, quills, wax, carefully scraped sinew for the strongest thread in the world - everything is made from country or the fractures that exist upon it.

"I gather all my fabrics secondhand. They're gifted or upcycled to inform the layers between our culture and country that exist within us all and thread us together.

"Exquisite beadwork and meticulous weaving set on luxurious velvet, tulle, chiffon and organza to form bespoke cultural couture creations that inform fashion from our cultural standpoint.

"Everything is made by me and made by hand. It truly is a multifaceted kaleidoscopic display of culture and colour that I'm proud and excited (and also a little nervous) to share."

Mumred designer Samala Cronin preparing for Country to Couture. (Image: Instagram @mumred_the_label)

The passionate designer continues to be heavily inspired by numerous realms of her culture, yet assures us that the lessons from Elders and family is something she strives to continuously honour.

"Everything I create is informed with story. Each piece is unique and made from traditional resources and upcycled fabrics - a fusion of the colours of country that showcases our unbroken connection to culture," she said.

"I honour the lessons of my old people, my ngabang, my mimi, my nanas - and practice storytelling through the lessons they taught me with my hands, to elevate our voices within a fractured country, because only when they truly see us will they hear us.

"I am nothing without the lessons passed down by my community. Every single knot I tie is a connection to my people. Every feather, every blade of grass, carries our collective spirit. There is no singular influence; it is the entirety of our existence - a fusion of all the lessons learnt on display. All the Blak joy, pain, love, and grief - every lesson, memory, story, and moment."

"We are nothing without each other. MumRed is a reflection of this interconnectedness and would not exist without my community and our extended connections. Our people are magic. That is what MumRed is about. Celebrating our magic."

As eager as she is to see her own brand walk the runway, Cronin is also looking forward to watch on as fellow First Nations designers and creatives take to the stage.

"There is no denying us mob have one degree of separation - always finding connections wherever we go," she said.

"The fashion industry is no different - it just concentrates and brings us closer. I'm excited to see the latest collection from my beautiful sister Cassie Leatham from Yanggurdi and Aunty Cheryl Creed's creations from Murri Que Couture.

"I have fond memories of painting and beading with Aunty Cheryl Creed in North Queensland, and I am huge fan of her ethos and aesthetic. Also, for the record - this is from 12 year old me - she makes the most amazing apricot chicken you will ever taste."

Samala Thakialee Cronin modelling Fractured Country, Fractured Songlines collection by MumRed. (Image: Stacey Lee Photography)

Aside from the excitement and exposure that comes with Country to Couture, Cronin said she is delighted to welcome multiple new opportunities in 2024, including a very special feature in the fashion industry's most established magazine, Vogue.

"MumRed is excited to Showcase at Country to Couture and attend the NIFA's - National Indigenous Fashion Awards," Cronin said.

"Incredibly, MumRed has been shortlisted as a Finalist in 4 out of 7 categories - Traditional Adornment, Wearable Art, Textile Design and Fashion Designer of the Year Award. In less than 12 months of operations, MumRed has experienced unprecedented success and been met with incredible support from community and industry alike.

"The next year is already looking exciting. We are honoured to be featured in the August issue of Vogue Australia and you should keep an eye out for us at Melbourne Fashion Week 2024. Something special might be in the works to mark MumRed's first 12 months in the fashion industry."

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